Dolapdere - Art Galleries and Mannequins in Istanbul
If you follow the zig-zags of laundry swaying in the breeze above, past children playing football in the street, past crumbling buildings and peeling paint, all the way to the bottom of the hill, you’ll stumble into Dolapdere. A quickly changing neighborhood centered around a cluster of impressive art spaces and confident mannequins seducing you from every window.
This art adventure takes you into Pilevneli Galeri, Arter, Dirimart, La Vitrina Manken shop, Evliyagil Dolapdere, by mannequins, around Evangelistra Greek Church, and to dinner at Zucca Pizza (map included at the end).
Hot Tip: If you’re into street photography, flea markets, or scavenging for old treasures, start this art adventure early on Sunday morning as the side streets behind the gas station are alive with vendors, but pack up at noon. The few times I went to take photos, I arrived at 7 or 8 am. This flea market is only open on Sundays, so if that’s not interesting to you, feel free to do this art adventure on any day except Monday (everything is closed).
I would start at Pilevneli Galeri, one of my favorite contemporary galleries in Istanbul. I’ll never forget the Refik Anadol exhibition, Melting Memories. It was so incredible I went twice! If you’re an avid reader of this blog, you know I love gorgeous buildings, and you’ll be oohing and ahhing from the first glance at the remarkable slotted brown exterior to the explosion of color on the top floor terrace cafe.
The cafe is oozing with charisma and spunk. Designed by German artist, Tobias Rehberger this architectural installation will captivate all your senses. Trying to follow the clean lines and stripes will leave you dizzy with joy.
The juxtaposition between the graphically appealing cafe and the long back window overlooking Dolapdere makes a bold statement of how beautiful the world can look when generations and styles collide. Sometimes it’s Better Than Ever, is a must-see, an unforgettable Istanbul art experience!
Next, let’s walk to Arter, a non-profit contemporary art space that recently relocated from Istiklal. Your heart will ping love at first sight upon seeing this dreamy fantasy, bathed in a mesmerizing geometric pattern, glistening in the sunlight. The six floors of creative dialogue beckoning you in to explore.
You can view exhibitions from the Arter Collection (half are Turkish artists!), listen to a lecture, attend a performance, participate in a workshop, watch a film, catch up on reading in their art library (I love art magazines!), or buy a unique art book in their bookshop. Admission is 25tl for adults, 15tl for seniors and teachers, free for 24 and younger.
The last gallery on this side of the street is Dirimart, which features established and emerging contemporary artists. After spending 16 years in Nisantasi, it relocated to Dolapdere, pioneering the way for other spaces to follow.
When I wrote my thesis in Graduate school, for my future art gallery, I designed it to have moveable and retractable walls. The first time I visited Dirimart I didn’t notice the walls, but for subsequent visits, the layout of the space always looked different. That’s when I saw they could move the walls to modify and transform it with every exhibition. Make sure you look up and admire the sliding system, it’s brilliant and innovative.
To do: take a photo of your favorite piece of art from each space to later share with your friend or lover over pizza. If you’re solo, share it on Instagram and tag #pursuitofart!
Now that you’re overflowing with inspiration, let's cross the street and peep the eccentric mannequin catwalk. Look up, look in, look everywhere! Naked and clothed! Eyes teasing you to come hither, prim and proper, and some poorly cared for and abused. What secrets are hiding behind their eyes? What mysteries could be solved from a cross-examination? As you mannequin watch, have fun making up exotic stories about their lives.
For the rest of this art adventure, visit the chic La Vitrina Manken shop, Evliyagil Dolapdere art gallery, walk up the street for mannequins in windows, then backtrack to explore around Evangelistra Greek Church, and finally choose at least one staircase to climb for a fresh perspective.
English translation: The whole neighborhood doesn’t believe in love.
When you’re hungry, walk up the slightly steep hill to Zucca Pizza. Mmmm, thin-crust pizza cooked in a wood-burning oven (with vegan options too!). It’s my favorite pizzeria in Istanbul. Zucca means pumpkin in Italian, and some of their pizzas feature a pumpkin sauce instead of tomato sauce. I highly recommend it! They also have fresh pasta, handmade ravioli, wine, and plates made from slices of trees!
If you prefer not to walk on the busy main street to Zucca Pizza the parallel street, Eşref Efendi Sk., is lovely, quiet, and you won’t have to climb the last set of stairs. The walk is 12-16 minutes.
